Saturday, September 19, 2015

I DREAM OF THE SAND AND THE SEA






I dream of the sand and the sea's salt on your skin,
Of the hard surfers that hurl their bodies like sharks
Down the thunderous tunnels off Te-a-hu-po‘o
And Pe-a-hi, and Dangerous Banks
And Cape Fear  







And I wake up trapped in the American South,
Close in under a root-tangled riverbank,
In cold water up to my neck,
Handfishing, naked and hungry.




http://espn.go.com/espn/photos/gallery/_/id/10873825/image/1/koa-rothman-xxl-global-big-wave-awards-highlights#




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