I dream of the
sand and the sea's salt on your skin,
Of the hard surfers that hurl their bodies like sharks
Down the
thunderous tunnels off Te-a-hu-po‘o
And Pe-a-hi, and
Dangerous Banks
And Cape
Fear
And I wake up
trapped in the American South,
Close in under a root-tangled riverbank,
In cold water up to my neck,
Handfishing, naked and hungry.
http://espn.go.com/espn/photos/gallery/_/id/10873825/image/1/koa-rothman-xxl-global-big-wave-awards-highlights#